簡述
2009年10月到貨的安提瓜Capetillo波旁
乾淨,果汁感,很甜,細膩,香草,煙燻莓果酸,這是款典型的優質安提瓜!
今年第6度拜訪安提瓜,是因為年初的樣品深深吸引我們!
還記得去年的聖芭芭拉嗎?那股細膩持久的甜感與餘韻,讓不敢喝果酸的客人都深深回味,而今年的安提瓜維持去年的高標準,但因氣候因素,大幅減產,導致我們僅採購到本區的兩個Genuine Antigua,這兩款經典安提瓜波旁種,將讓大家舒坦驚嘆不已.
2000年時,肇因仿冒豆猖獗,由安提瓜咖啡農與生產者組成的正牌安提瓜咖啡農協會(APCA),在政府支持下掛牌運作,總計有34個安提瓜莊園加入,歐舍採購的安提瓜豆都隸屬這個協會,在本文後方,我們將會有安提瓜咖啡農協會的簡短說明;下圖是本批Capetillo莊園波旁種生豆的外觀,麻袋上有正牌安提瓜協會的Logo,當然下方的彩色logo是歐舍的:
安堤瓜產區,在瓜地馬拉這個國家的8大產區中,最負盛名,主要原因是栽種咖啡的海拔都位於火山區且地勢很高,而且不像其他產區多少都受海風或是大湖區的高溼度空氣吹拂,安堤瓜的獨特微型地理形成她獨特的風味:
(1)多功能的火山沃土:安堤瓜境內就有三大火山 Acatenango(目前本火山已經獨立為瓜地馬拉第8個產區), Fuego and Agua Volcanoes. 其中Fuego—是活火山,活躍的能力長帶給安堤瓜咖啡區肥沃的火土外,還有獨特的火山浮石,她是火山岩漿噴出後的冷卻物,具有多孔性與隔熱性質,非常適合在土壤裡保溼,因為安堤瓜區是7大產區雨量最少的,咖啡生長非常需要足夠的水分,這裡的火山浮石的保溼能力,恰巧可彌補雨量不足,同時生長的咖啡果更具獨特的產區風味.
(2)高密度的遮蔭樹:除了遮蔭還可以預防霜害以及形成獨特的微型氣候, 安堤瓜區由於夜晚寒冷在12月到2月間會偶發霜害,這時高密度的遮蔭樹就發揮功效,避免咖啡數結霜,同時安堤瓜區的地下水水位不深,這些遮陰樹容易吸取水分,與周邊的咖啡樹形成一個適合植物生長的微型氣候.
(3)日夜溫差劇烈:對咖啡漿果的甜度與獨特風味的形成幫助很大.
(4)海拔高:高海拔生長的咖啡樹,豆質堅硬、生長出的咖啡香氣較上揚同時風味也比較能突顯.
而2009生產的Capetillo莊園波旁,有著清心頗甜的香草香,以及讓人難忘的薰莓果風,很適合老饕與嚮往經典優質安提瓜波旁的追求者,這是她讓人一測試就想採購的主因,2009年也確實不到80袋,更增添他的身價!
2009年的Capetillo波旁資料如下:(一爆中段下豆,cinnamon烘焙度,烘豆時間12分)
國別:瓜地馬拉
產區:安堤瓜 標示:Genuim Antigua Capetillo
處理廠: 莊園本身自設處理廠
品種:波旁種
採收期:2009年3月
處理法:水洗發酵、後段先日曬再低溫烘乾
外觀:綠色、od/350g
品種:Bourbon 等級:SHB
乾香:莓果,奶香,茶香,檸檬香茅,黑糖.
溼香:香草,焦糖,杏桃,花香,奶油香,莓果香.
啜吸:
很乾淨細膩,花香,白葡萄柚,酸甜細膩,香草甜明顯,莓果甜,中後段有濃郁的煙熏烏梅味,油脂感佳,屬難得的經典優質安提瓜波旁風味!
[延伸閱讀關於APCA]
The reputation for high quality coffee from Antigua is the basis upon which the country has built its magnificent repute for coffee from Guatemala. It’s been considered the best coffee in the country for over a hundred years and, most likely, is considered among the best in the world.
Nevertheless, it wasn’t until 2000 that 34 local producers came together to create the Genuine Antigua Coffee Growers Association (APCA). Their objective was to protect the name “ANTIGUA”. This name provides denomination of origin to the coffee, as well as guaranteeing the quality and, most importantly, maintaining the standards that have shaped the worldwide reputation of Guatemala’s best coffee, Antigua coffee.
The APCA members also strive to support other producers of Antigua coffee, regardless of the amount of coffee they grow. There are more than 935 producers in the region, many of which are considered small farmers.
hey are provided with training and technical assistance to improve their growing techniques, as well as sharing improved and appropriate processing methodology.
Working together, the APCA coffee farmers are committed to producing Genuine Antigua Coffee of the very highest quality.